Glossary J

Jatoba:

A hardwood from Brazil (aka, Brazilian Cherry) characterized by a deep orange to flame red color. Tight grained and usually knot free, it is handsome replacement for "old growth" cherry. Dense and hard, it machines well with sharp carbide cutters.

Jig:

see annex on Jig 

Joinery:

(Source: Encyclopedia Britannica   1911 )

Joint:

[under construction 4-30-08]

In the structure of an object constructed from wood, the point where two or more components come together is a "joint". Widely recognized as the central component of woodworking, making joints is an essential skill for wannabe woodworkers to achieve. Truisms abound about joint making! According to many woodworkers,

"A piece is only as strong as its weakest joint!" or "A craftsman is known for the joints he makes!".

Among the numerous woodworkers manuals on making joints, two come to mind: the first, R J DeCristoforo's The Complete Book of Wood Jointery New York: Sterling Publishing, 1997, is for beginners. The second, Yeun Chan's Classic Joints With Power Tools New York: Lark Books (A Division of Sterling), 2002, is for more skilled woodworkers.

1. Spliced or Halved Joint—used where the ends of two pieces are to be joined together in a continuous line to obtain extra length.
2. End Lap or Halved Joint—used where the end of one piece joins the end of another at an angle. Often used on window screens, frames, small doors or panel type of construction. Instead of being cut square across the joint can be made with a mitre on one side. In this case it is called an "End Lap Mitre Joint."
3. No. 3. Cross Lap Joint—used where two pieces having square edges intersect each other as in the case of making pigeon holes, divisions on an umbrella stand or the cross bars of a taboret, etc.
4. No. 4. Middle Lap Joint—used to connect two members at some intersecting point in the form of the letter T. Note: All of the four above joints are of the half lap group and are made in much the same way, that is, cutting away half of the wood on both members, making the top and bottom surfaces flush (even).
5. No. 5. Rabbet Joint—used extensively in drawer and cabinet construction where a plain butt joint would be objectionable on account of the end grains showing.
6. No. 6. Dado Joint—used in the back construction of drawers, the joining of the shelves to the sides, for book shelves, etc.
7. No. 7. Butt Joint—used a great deal in box construction. This joint is often simply nailed together.
8. No. 8. Glued and Blocked Butt Joint—used extensively in cabinet work. The strength depends on the quality of the glued joint and the reinforced blocking.
9. No. 9. Dowel Butt Joint—used in cabinet work in place of the mortise and tenon joint wherever the leg and rail type of construction is used.
10. No. 10. Edge to Edge Dowel Joint—used for joining together various boards as in the case of wide table tops, panels, etc. The dowels help to line up the one surface of all the different boards joined in this way.
Note: Dowel joints are simple and quick to make. Care must be exercised to accurately locate all holes and to bore them straight. Dowel pins must fit these holes. These joints are glued together.
11. No. 11. End Dado or Box Joint—(Sometimes called dado and rabbet joint) used in box construction.
12. No. 12. Dado Tongue and Rabbet Joint—used in drawer construction. This type shows very little end grain and has a good glueing area.
13. No. 13. Mitre Joint—used extensively in picture frame construction or running mouldings. A true mitre is cut at 45-degrees. This joint, however, may be made at any angle.
14. No. 14. Mitre with Spline—used for the stronger and better type of mitre construction. The grain of the spline must run at right angles to the mitre cut.
15. No. 15. Through Mortise and Tenon Joint—used for all forms of frame or panel construction as in doors, blinds, screens, etc. The hole portion is known as the mortise and the other part fitting into it as the tenon.
16. No. 16. Blind Mortise and Tenon Joint—used extensively in all forms of leg and rail construction where the end of the tenon, as in the case of the through mortise and tenon joint, would be objectionable.
17. No. 17. End Mortise and Tenon Joint—a simplified type of mortise and tenon joint. Used for the making of screens, frames, etc.
18. No. 18. Stub Mortise and Tenon Joint—differs from the blind mortise and tenon joints in that the joint is made with a short tenon. Is used more extensively in carpentry work.
19. No. 19. Panel Construction—grooves are cut in the edges to receive the panels. This form has its value in allowing for expansion and contraction of the panel.
20. No. 20. Half Lap Dovetail Joint—used in place of the middle lap joint where there is to be a pulling strain on one member.
21. No. 21. Half Dovetail Dado Joint—a good joint, but difficult to make it fit well on wide surfaces—used in place of simple dado joint.
22. No. 22. Through Single Dovetail Joint—used in place of the end mitre and tenon joint.
23. No. 23. Multiple End Dovetail Joint — used extensively in drawer construction.
24. No. 24. Blind Mitre or Secret Dovetail Joint—a very difficult joint to make and used very little. For fine box construction. No joints show except the mitre cut.

The illustration, from page 38 of Raymond F. Yates, Antique Reproductions for the Home Craftsman, 1950,

shows many of the methods for fastnening one or more pieces of wood to another that  woodworkers have created and used for generations.

Filleted Joint:

similar in appearance and function as Spline. A joint made rabbeting two workpieces where they abut (i.e., at their edges) and inserting and securing in the rabbeted groove, called a Fillet.

Source: Webster's New Dictionary 2d ed unabridged, page 947

Filleted Joint [image needed]

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Jointer:  Jointer: See separate entry on Jointer