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4 May-June 1935, page 220.Glossary C
Cabinetmaker
Treated together with Carpenter, Joiner, Mechanic, Craftsman. Briefly, a Cabinetmaker is a woodworker who makes cabinets and does the finer kind of joiner's work.
Cabinetmakers work in solid wood, typically Hardwood, though Veneers of highly prized wood may be used for decorative purposes. As "finish" carpenters, Carpenters can work at the same level of excellence as cabinetmakers; mostly carpenters engage in the initial stages of construction, activities that lead up to the point where a construction needs finishing touches; for example, finish carpenters takeover where Moldings for ceilings and banisters for stairways are precisely cut and mounted.
Cabriole
Calipers
Also Dial Caliper and Micrometer Caliper. Variations include Compass, Divider, and other types of calipers, many noted below. [need to supplement this entry with the other types of tools that fall roughly into the same category. See also Measurement.
A Caliper is
...[a] measuring instrument with a movable spindle for taking highly exact measurements.... Some such tools are capable of measuring a 10,000th of an inch.Source: Anonymous article in 1935 Home Craftsman.
Calipers are, according to Paul Hasluck,
... the tools used by the carpenter, but the turner uses them almost constantly for some jobs, whereas in ordinary carpentry they are used but seldom....Source: Paul Hasluck, The Handyman's Book 1903, page 466.
Further, Hasluck does not shy away from prescriptive comments:
For small callipers (sic) with which to measure up to a diameter of 2 114 in., the mild steel should be at least 314 in. wide and 1116 in. thick ; a length of 5 114 in. is sufficient for outside callipers, and 4 112 in. for inside ones. The washers may be 11/16 in, in diameter.
Called also "pair of calipers".
Calipers
Carbide and Carbide-tipped
Carcase
Carcase Saw
Besides the above, other saws are used for particular purposes, as the compass saw, for cutting circular work, and the key-hole saw, for cutting out small holes. The carcase saw is a large kind of dovetail saw, having about 11 teeth to an inch.
Source: John Bullock, The rudiments of architecture and building: for the use of architects ... 1855
§ 3. Joiners' Tools.
The bench planes are, the jack plane, the fore plane, the trying plane, the long plane, the jointer, and the smoothing plane; the cylindric plane, the compass and forkstaflf planes; the straight block, for straightening short edges. Rebating planes are the moving fillister, the sash fillister, the common rebating plane, the side rebating plane. Grooving planes are the plough and dado grooving planes. Moulding planes are sinking snipehills, side snipebills, beads, hollows and rounds, ovolos and ogees. Boring tools are, gimlets, brad.awls, stock, and bits. Instruments for dividing the wood, are principally the ripping saw, the half ripper, the band saw, the panel saw, the tenon saw, the carcase saw, the sash saw, the compass saw, the keyhole saw, and turning saw. Tools used for forming the angles of two adjoining surfaces, are squares and bevels. Tools used for drawing parallel lines are guages. Edge tools, are the firmer chisel, the mortise chisel, the socket chisel, the gouge, the hatchet, the adze, the drawing knife. Tools for knocking upon wood and iron are, the mallet and hammer. Implements for sharpening tools are the grinding stone, the rub stone, and the oil or whet stone.
Source: Peter Nicholson, The Mechanic's companion: or, the elements and practice of carpentry ..., 1832, page 90.
Carpenter's Pencil
Cast Iron
Castellated Nut
A nut with a series of notches on one face to allow a Cotter Pin to pass through a hole in a shaft or a bolt. The pin prevents the nut from turning. ( Home Craftsman 4 November-December 1935 p. 94)
Cathedral Grain
In woodworking, this term describes a particular grain pattern on flatsawn boards. As the drawing shows, the center of the board exhibits prominent arch-shaped grain lines -- pointed arches that nest inside one another -- that some claim resemble the pointed arches of the exteriors of Gothic cathedrals.
To the woodworker,
"Trees are nature's cathedrals, places for worship of natural beauty". In their natural state, however, while definitely 'cathedral-like', trees are open to life, and death, and in 'death' reemerge in some other form, perhaps equally beautiful.
Sources: Woodworking Magazine No 13 Spring 2009, page 29; illustration by Robert W. Lang
Caul, Clamping Caul
Board clamped across a panel glue-up to hold the panel flat.
Caul Veneering
Although commercial plywood is habitually glued under pressures up to 200 lbs. per sq. in., the home craftsman can turn out a thoroughly satisfactory panel or veneer job if he allows one hand clamp for each 40 sq. in. of surface. If press screws are used, the area can be doubled because of the extra pressure exerted. By using bench screws instead of the rotary handled press screws, a veneer press can be easily built up from a series of simple frames like the one illustrated in Figure 6.15. To resist a pressure of about 4500 lb, the two crossbars for an r8-in. span with two screws should be of hardwood not less than 3 in. by 3/ in.; for a three-screw span of 30 in., the dimensions of the cross-bars should be increased to 3/ in. by 4 3/4 in.
Improvised Presses.
For small work a satisfactory veneer press can be improvised by placing the work on a flat board on the floor, directly under a floor beam. Using a 4 X 4 or two 2 X 4's as a bearer, an automobile jack under a long a X 4 reaching to the floor beam will exert the necessary center pressure. C clamps can be used to hold down the edges, and folded newspapers under the plank "bearer" will compensate for uneveness in the floor.
In an emergency, sand bags will give satisfactory results on small jobs, or piles of bricks, or a washboiler filled with water.
In using a veneer press or any sort of pressure screws or clamps, the veneer is laid on a flat "caul" or board and covered with another caul. Cauls of /-in, plywood are now finding favor in many home workshops. The lower caul rests on solid stock bearers, or the lower crossbars of the veneer press. Directly above the bottom bearers are the bearers upon which the pressure is exerted. As indicated in Figure 6.16, these top bearers are crowned or slightly arched in the center, so that pressure will be exerted upon the center of the glued area first, forcing the glue out toward the edges. For the same reason the pressure screws, bench clamps, hand clamps, or C-clamps controlling the center bearer are screwed down first. It is wise to insert a folded newspaper between the veneer and its caul, to take up the squeezed-out glue.Source: B W Pelton Furniture Making and Cabinet Work NY Van Nostrand 1949, pages 364-366:
Chamfer
click here for extended entryChamfer plane
A plane with an inverted "V" shaped bottom with the cutter at the point of the "V". Used for Beveling an Edge uniformly. Great differences exist in models of chamfer planes. Paul Hasluck (1903:48-49) shows three: Preston's plane; Melhuish's plane, and Nurse's plane. [need photos rather than Hasluck's drawings]
Source: Paul Noonan Hasluck, The Handyman's Book, London: Cassell, 1903, 48-49; Home Craftsman 4 march April 1935, page 172.
Chasing
Ornamenting metal by the use of special tools known as chasing tools. A chasing tool is held against the metal and tapped with a hammer.
Source: Home Craftsman
Chip Carving
Chip-Out
See < Tear-Out.
Chisel
[definitely incomplete] In "Chisels and other paring tools", Paul Hasluck (1903: 35-59) combines diagrams, illustrations and descriptive text showing amateur woodworkers many aspects about these venerable woodworking tools. [see file in glossary folder] Butt chisel. A chisel about 7" to 9" in length. Used for cutting recesses for hinges, locks and so forth, where accuracy of cutting is essential. home craftsman 4 may june 1935 p 220
Firmer chisel. For rough work, a chisel designed to stand up to being beaten by a hammer or mallet.Skew chisel. A chisel with a straight-cutting edge running at an angle to the handle and beveled on its two flat sides.
Source: Home Craftsman 4 May-June 1935 page 220.
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The
make selected should be the FIRMER-CHISEL, the form of which is shown
in Fig. 5. These are made in sixteen graduated widths, from 1/8 inch to
2 inches, but the following eight sizes will be sufficient for all
ordinary purposes, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/2, and 2
inches. The amateur, in the earlier stages of his operations, will
probably find several of these sizes unnecessary; but as such chisels
are not expensive articles, he may fairly aim at possessing the
suggested selection if not the complete set. He will, of course,
purchase the chisels handled and ready for final
sharpening”. Source: George Ashdown Audsley, Amateur Joinery in the Home: a Practical Manual for the Amateur Joiner on the Construction of Articles of Domestic Furniture Boston: Small, Maynard & Co, 1916 page 42. |
A chisel about a foot long capable of withstanding the driving blows of a mallet or hammer. It often is capped with leather. Source: Home Craftsman 4 May-June 1935 page 220. |
| “My [chisel] for [rough work] is less delicate, a beater firmer chisel with a polycarbonate handle and a 4-inch blade, of a type that is sometimes called a Pocket Chisel, which refers to its length (6 to 8 inches) and to where it lives: it lives in a pocket of my toolpouch, and serves for most rough work. It was designed to be struck—brace yourself—with a hammer, although that's carrying heavy-duty a bit far. Remodelers often keep one of these expendables for general use, or else a sturdy mortise chisel (larger, wood-handled, with an overall length upwards of a foot.) The blades are often quite short from repeated grinding after hitting nails” Source: Jeff Taylor, Tools of the Trade: The Art and Craft of Carpentry (San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1996) page 133. |
Sources: George
Ashdown Audsley, Amateur Joinery in the Home: a
Practical Manual for the Amateur Joiner on the Construction of Articles
of Domestic Furniture Boston: Small,
Maynard & Co, 1916 ; Home
Craftsman 4 May-June 1935 p 220; Jeff Taylor, Tools
of the Trade: The Art and Craft of Carpentry (San
Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1996) p 133.
"Chop Saw": A derogatory term for an inexpensive saw with a universal motor. [also called Electric miter saw, cut-off saw or power miter box) [cutting capacity?] Primarily used for making cross cuts and miter cuts. The basic model has its circular blade fixed at a 90° angle to the vertical, a compound miter saw's blade can be adjusted to other angles. A sliding compound miter saw has a blade which can be pulled through the work similar to the action of a radial arm saw, which gives a greater capacity for cutting wider workpieces.
Source: http://www.answers.com/topic/saw
JOHN WARDE, "HOME IMPROVEMENT," New York Times June 27, 1991: "For mitering -- cutting the ends of the molding at a 45-degree angle -- use a miter box and back saw, or rent a power miter saw, also called a chop saw."
Steven Maxwell "Workshop" Toronto Star Apr 8, 2000. pg. 1: "If I were recommending a general-purpose chop saw to a friend, I'd make the case for a sliding compound machine spinning a 10-inch blade."
Jim Fredrick, " Lifestyles," Anchorage Daily News. Anchorage, Alaska: Aug 29, 1997. pg. D.6 "The old chop saw, or miter saw, with a 10-inch blade that did little more than move up and down, and was movable from side to side for vertical miter cuts, is now made with a 12-inch blade to handle thicker stock. But more importantly, it can be angled to make compound miters. The blade/motor is mounted on a slide rail to allow cutting wider stock -- a hybrid of the chop saw with the old slide-rail cutoff saw -- with a corresponding increase in flexibility and portability."
Jack Warner, "WOODWORKING: Buying proper tools important," The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Atlanta, Ga.: Sep 27, 1998. pg. JJ.07: "If all he was interested in was carpentry, then he might get by with a portable circular saw or a chop saw."
Chuck:
On
the left,
the anatomy of a Jacobs drill-chuck. (A) Body; (B)
Jaws; (C) Split
threaded ring, force fit into (D) Adjusting sleeve (Courtesy Jacobs
Mfg. Co. Ltd.) Source:
Tubal Cain. Drill, Taps and Dies.
Birmingham, England: Argus Books, 1976, page 38.
Image courtesy Jacobs Mfg. Co. Ltd.) 
The
assembly of a Drill or Lathe
where, during rotation, the Bit or material is
held. A Chuck has movable jaws, for gripping Bit.
A
Collet is a split-sleeve type of chuck -- but no
movable jaws-- for holding drills and other such
tools. Similar to a Drill's Chuck
or Shaper's Spindle, an
assembly on a Router where the Bit
is inserted and gripped tightly. Uses a compressio sleeve,
or split-sleeve, to grip the Bit's
Shank. The greater number of splits, also known as
slits, the more efficiently the collet grips the Shank
of
a router's bit. See [Anonymous], "Router Collets", Woodworking
Magazine, Autumn, 2006, back cover, for info on a
how a collet works, types of collets, and maintenance.
On
the left,
the anatomy of an Albrecht keyless chuck. "The design enables even
large drills to be gripped firmly when hand-tightened".
Ordinarily, a Collet chuck is
made to hold only one size of tool shank without the addition of an
adapter.
Source:
Home Craftsman
4 March-April 1935, page 172.<
Sources :Home
Craftsman
4 March-April 1935; Tubal Cain. Drill, Taps and Dies Birmingham, England: Argus Books, 1976.
It
is no use having a perfectly formed drill point if the drill itself is
not held both firmly and true.
Source: Tubal Cain. Drill,
Taps and Dies.Birmingham,
England: Argus Books, 1976, page 38.
By
way of annotation on this book, I must say that it is one of the best
books that I have ever purchased on an impulse at a used book store. It
is 30 years old, is written in England -- which does not mean it''s
"bad", simply that frequently books written in another country do not
necessarily speak to your needs, because the products discussed are
different, etc.
Circular Saw click here for extended entry
Circular
Saw Blade: the central component of a circular saw.
Clamps:
It's
often said that "you can't have enough clamps". Clamps are used mostly
for hold workpieces together firmly and accurately while glue sets up,
but often serve simply as a "third hand", for stabilizing plywood
panels while a cut is made with a portable power saw.
Bar
clamps
-- essential in the home shop, if you have larger
projects
that require gluing, especially table tops, or pieces that require
edge-to-edge gluing. Bar clamps come in several
different styles:
Among older styles are A through F in the image on the left. Those
marked B, C, and D are the heftiest, especially B. A is a
special-purpose clamp, while E and F -- if purchased new -- are
assembled in your shop after the woodwn structural parts are
purchased.
C-Clamps:
Also
essential in the home shop, C-clamps are designed to hold smaller,
narrow workpieces, such as table legs, while glue
sets.
Named after its physical
shape, the C clamp consists of fixed
flat jaw and one movable jaw. The movable jaw has a flat
“anvil” that pivots on
a ball-joint swivel, allowing the clamp to adjust to securely holding
some surfaces
that are parallel or are nearly parallel. A threaded screw -- with a
sliding
pin handle -- adjusts the opening of the clamp.
When you purchase C clamps, two dimensions are important: the opening of the jaws, which can varies from 1 up to about 18 inches, and the depth of the clamp, which varies. The depth -- referred to as the throat – extends from the center of the screw to the clamp’s“C” part. So-called “deep-throated C clamps” have throats extending up to 16 inches. The “depth dimension” of the throat determines how distant from the edge the workpiece can be clamped.
Hand-Screw Clamps: In function, similar in many respects to C-clamps, although achieving the same degree of pressure is not possible. The distinct of handscrew clamps is an ability to adjust to unique angles.
Cleat: 3. a A strip of wood, iron or other material fastened across something to give strength, hold in position, furnish a grip, etc.; as, a porcelain cleat with grooves in which electric wires are fastened; a strip of leather fastened to the sole of a shoe to give a firm grip. b Specif.,Joinery, a frame of wood or iron used instead of cramps for compressing joints, etc.; also, a chock or bearing block.
My Websters New Dictionary, 2d ed, 1952, gives at least three meanings for "cleat", only one of which (posted above) relates to cleat in woodworking. For an "insider" to woodworking, visualizing a cleat, and how it functions, is easy; describing it for "outsiders", though, is not so easy.
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... The seat may be made in two ways; cross pieces of wood may be used or a softer seat with webbing and wire springs. If the former is chosen the cross pieces should be 24" long, 3 1/2" wide and 5/8" thick. Mortises of full size to receive the ends are cut on the inside of the side pieces 2" from the lower edge and placed as shown in Fig. 1. If springs are used four strips of 3" webbing are run both across and front and back, the ends being securely held by cleats 1" square which are screwed to the inside lower edge of the cross pieces. Short spiral wire springs are then sewed where the webbing crosses, 16 being required. The tops of the springs are then secured by ad¬ditional strips of webbing or by a piece of strong canvas, the latter preferred. Allowance must be made for the depression of the springs and canvas caused by the weight of the person occupying the chair. Source: JOHN F. ADAMS.,"A Reclining Chair", Amateur Work May 1902 page? |
Clinch Nails:
Cockbeading: Philip Leon, "Woodworker Meets Wordworker," Popular Woodworking (April 2002), p. ? ["Out of the Woodwork" column.]
Collet : See also Chuck.
On the left is the image of the collet system in my early 1990s Elu router.
(Source: [Anonymous] "Elu Router", Shopnotes 1, no 1 1992, page 10 Image used with permission.) (The significance of routers in the amateur woodworking movement warrants an extended treatment of the router's development. Click here for an account that traces back to the first decade of the 20th century up to the recent past
Colonial Revival:
Read more here
Briefly, "Colonial" is both a period in American history and a furniture style. As the noted writer of woodworking manuals, John Gerald Shea says in the Preface to the 1964 edition of Colonial Furniture Making for Everybody , page v, much confusion exists about the meaning of "Colonial".
| Between 1880 and 1930 the foreign-born population of the United States more than doubled from 6.7 to 14.2 million, the immigrants bringing their own speech, culture, and politics. Americans whose ancestors had arrived earlier were often fearful that their traditions would be swept away by the flood of foreign ideas and practices. From the 1890s until strict limitations were imposed on further immigration in 1924, many native-born Americans reacted to the threatened destruction of the American way of life by actively engaging in Americanization, the instilling of traditional WASP "American" values in the minds of the foreign-born. Most often Americanization simply took the form of English-language classes and instruction in American government and history. The great events of the nation's past might, it was felt, also be made more vivid if portrayed in murals within public buildings. Edwin Howland Blashfield, one of the best-known muralists of the early 1900s, testified that art in public buildings was "good ... for the uneducated Irishman, German, Swede, Italian, who may stroll into some new city hall in our … ? |
More development needed, with these sources:
Williams, A.D. Spanish Colonial Furniture. Gibbs Smith, 1944.
Katz, Sali Barnett. Hispanic furniture: an American collection from the Southwest. Stamford, Conn.: Architectural Book Pub. Co., 1986.
Taylor, Lonn, New Mexican furniture, 1600-1940 : the origins, survival, and revival of furniture making in the Hispanic Southwest. Lonn Taylor, Dessa Bokides ; photographs by Mary Peck, additional photography by Jim Bones. Santa Fe, N.M.: Museum of New Mexico Press, 1987.
Kingsley H. Hammett. Early New Mexican Furniture: A Handbook of Plans and Building Techniques. Santa Fe, NM: Fleetwood, 1999. 96 pages.
Colonial Style: [much more needed here] Colonial furniture, designed in a style reminiscent of primitive English Tudor furniture, is very straight lined, with simple curves and angles. Because its simple lines present less difficulty to "newbie" woodworkers -- in this sense very similar to Shaker and Arts and Crafts (Mission) furniture design -- the Colonial style remains popular for woodworking projects.
Combination Square:
Sometimes called an Adjustable Square. In the woodshop, virtually indispensable, first as a measuring tool, but -- as its label suggests -- performs several other functions: Try-Square, Marking Square, Ruler, Miter Square , depth gauge, height gauge, and plumb. (Some Combination Squares include tiny Spirit Levels and Scribes or tiny Awls.)
Originally a tool of engineers and architects, the adjustable square is sometimes called the "Stanley combination Try -Square and Depth-Gauge, incorporating a sliding rule".
The high-end manufacturer, Starrett Tools, however, is even more famous for its version of an adjustable square. (See image blow, left; see this bio entry for Laroy S. Starrett after clicking on this link.)
In
my personal
experience -- I have several of these tools, including the one pictured
on the left -- these tools
are
most frequently called Adjustable
Square s,
but
after considerable investigation, it appears that Combination
Square s
is the most widely used designation, and -- if we
consider Fine
Woodworking as
an
arbiter of proper usage among woodworkers -- the correct label. (I came
to the latter conclusion by way of a search for both terms in the FW
database. The
FW database
yields no hits for Adjustable
Square , five
hits for
Combination
Square .
I do question my results on both terms, because, five
uses of Combination
Square
in all the articles published in FW
since its launching, 1976,
doesn't seem plausible. The frequency,
I think, should be greater. And unless the FW
editors are pruning out uses of
Adjustable Square ,
one would think it
would have been used in 30 years of articles.)
Using one
of the
two Making of America
databases -- and the search
string, combination square,
I located the United States Patent Office's
Subject-Matter
Index Of Patents For Inventions Issued By The United States Patent
Office From 1790 To 1873 ,
inclusive ..., which
records that a D A B Bailey, St Johnsbury, Vermont, 1867, and a #
65,681; H N Burr, Mount Gilead, Ohio, 1869, # 94,867, both patented "Combination
Squares". (The
MOA database
above is operated by the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor.)
Just to
make sure
that the Combination
Squares patented in the 1860s are the same as the Combination
Squares we know of today, I also searched for the term in the second
Making of America -- the one at Cornell University
-- I located more hits, including illustrations here:
Source: "Improved Tools for Wood-Workers," Manufacturer and Builder Volume 19, Issue 1 January 1887, page 6. The publisher of that journal is Western and Company, New York.) The Scientific American New Series, Volume 21, Issue 14 (October 1869) page 222, confirms the Burr patent, mentioned above.
The
earliest use to
the term, Adjustable Square is,
evidently, 1863, but -- since it's not accompanied by an
image -- we can't be certain that the reference is indeed to an
adjustable square as we know that tool
today: Search: "adjustable square" yields two hits, one this
match of 'adjustable square': Scientific American
New Series, Volume 9, Issue 2, page 28. (In the second hit, I
couldn't locate the evidence.)
This
1868 quote
from this Google Book Search shows that the Adjustable Square
is a tool first used by
machinists:
Source: Andrew Betts Brown, Engineering Facts And Figures: An Annual Register Of Progress In Mechanical Engineering And... , 1868, page 226.
In operation, its blade can be locked at any point along its length. (The blade is held in the "stock", or "sliding head", by an assembly that combines a "hook clamp" that slides in the groove along the length of the blade, and -- anywhere along the blade --can be tightened with a bolt with a nut.)
Sources: Scientific American New Series, Volume 9, Issue 2; Andrew Betts Brown, Engineering Facts And Figures: An Annual Register Of Progress In Mechanical Engineering And... , 1868; "Improved Tools for Wood-Workers," Manufacturer and Builder Volume 19, Issue 1 January 1887; Charles G. Wheeler, Woodworking: A Handbook for Beginners in Home and School Treating Tools and Operations . NY: Putnam's Sons, 1924. page 18;International Correspondence Schools, Shop and Foundry Practice , 1901; Jeff Taylor, Tools of the Trade: The Art and Craft of Carpentry , San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1996; Ernest Joyce, Encyclopedia of Furniture Making , NY: Sterling, 1979, page 30.
Combination Woodworking Machines
For and extended entry, click here
"Today, a Combination Woodworking Machine is a machine with a small, space-saving footprint, with an array of operations, usually including a table saw with an circular blade and a tilting table, or a tilting arbor, a 30" lathe, a drill press, a disk sander, a shaper, and you can add such accessories as jig saws, bandsaws, and abrasive machines, such as a disk sander.
Often powered from one source, a Fractional Horsepower Electric Induction Motor, or -- in the late 1920s and early 1930s -- a gasoline engine, and either by Lineshafts and belts, or -- later -- by several motors. European woodworkers, who put a premium on space, provide a good market for combination tools, but while space in the footprint is a premium, have engineered these units so that usually three 3-hp motors drive five tools: tilting arbor circular saw with sliding table, horizontal mortiser, jointer, planer, and shaper.
Here in America, while in general woodworkers tend more toward single-function machines, multipurpose-tool designs (Shopsmith and Total Shop) are still popular in home shops. For an extended discussion, including the history of the development of the combination woodworking machine, click here.
Compressed-Air System
Constructive Design
See Design
Coped Joints
see the Home Craftsman 20 (March April) 1951 pp 45-46
Coplanar
[under construction] Jeff Joslin, an official of the Old Woodworking Machines website (and advisory editor for my online History of the Amateur Woodworking Movement: "Coplanar" means "lying or occurring in the same plane; used for points, lines, or figures."
see discussion in the piece on the Evolution of the Tilting Arbor Saw
Corbel
for extended entry, click here
Cordless Tools
As the term, "cordless" implies, a tool self-contained for power, not needing a cord that connects to an electrical outlet. In 1961, at the behest of NASA, an engineer for Black and Decker, Robert H. Riley Jr., invented the nickel-cadmium battery. This space-age invention subsequently led to the first cordless drill for Black & Decker; the drill had a 4.8-volt nickel-cadmium battery. Using this technology, Black & Decker later created a cordless rotary hammer drill, used by astronauts to drill for rock samples on the moon. (In this context, most famous perhaps is the photo of astronauts using a cordless hammer drill to obtain rock samples on the moon in ? See the extensive account of Riley at Tools Online "Hall of Fame" [link needed]
The material culture historian, Carolyn M. Goldstein, claims (without any documentation) that, "Cordless drills, although expensive and underpowered at first, were introduced in the early 1960s."
Other portable power tool manufacturers followed with their own battery-powered tools. In 1963, Milwaukee marketed a (corded) battery-powered drill -- the battery clipped to the user's belt -- a technique that gave Milwaukee's tools more power without the extra weight of the battery. Today, cordless models of everything from drills to circular saws, jig saws, and routers are available from a variety of manufacturers with power ranging from 6- to 36-volt. Manufacturers offer their customers "combo kits" that feature a variety of different cordless tools (Photo, below).
Modern tools often have "smart" chargers that reduce heat to maximize power, nun-time, and the useful life of the battery itself.
(Source: Carolyn M. Goldstein, Do-It-Yourself: Home Improvement in 20th Century America New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 1998, pages 50-51.)
Cotter Pin:
Countersink: As a noun, the cone-shaped opening at the upper end of a Pilot Hole, made to allow a flathead screw or bolt head to set Flush with the top surface of the piece. As a verb, using a Countersink Punch, drive the head of a Finishing Nail or Brad below the surface of the wood in order to conceal it. James Smith, 1815, page 115: "The head of the countersink is conical."
Source:
James Smith,The
panorama of science and art; mbracing the sciences of aerostation,
agriculture and gardening, architecture, astronomy, chemistry ... the
arts of building, brewing, bleaching ... the methods of working in wood
and metal ... and a miscellaneous selection of interesting and useful
processes and experiments.
Liverpool, Printed for Nuttall, Fisher, and Co., 1815.,
(My own curiosity will keep me working on this entry. For the woodworker, the concept of "countersink" is simple, a merely a jig designed to allow you to set the head of a screw flush with the top of a piece. "Sink" I can understand. Why "counter"? Nothing that I have examined, so far, begins to explain the reason for counter in the term, countersink.)
Countersink Bit: Its cutting edge conically-shaped, a Bit designed to cut conical or circular beveled recesses for countersinking Screws.
These images show a selection of countersink bits. (I have an image of a bored countersink hole to be uploaded later.)
The larger image on the right, below -- actually a jpg for a page from a book in the Making of America database, is the result of a quick-and-dirty search for "countersink": Shelley, C. P. B. (Charles Percy Bysshe), 1827-1890, Workshop appliances including descriptions of the gauging and measuring instruments, the hand cutting-tools, lathes, drilling, planning, and other machine-tools used by engineers. New York: Appleton, 1873, page 64.
Cove: A rounded concave cut in a molding, usually placed at the edge F so that the cut is one half of a complete groove or flute. ( Source: Home Craftsman 4 January-February 1935, page 124)
Cross-lap Joint: A wood joint made where two members cross each other. When the two members are of equal size each member is notched to a depth of one-half its thickness. Example: the stretchers on a gateleg table are cut with half-lap joints so that a wing member of the frame-work can fit into the stationary member. (home craftsman 4 November- December 1935 p. 94)
Curved-Leg Table
also Tripod Table (see article,Woodsmith , 28, no 168 December 2006 pages 22-26, plus other details on subsequent pages.
Cutterhead
The metal cylinder, with three or four lateral slots, designed to hold the Knives of Jointers, Planers, and Molders securely while the rotary action of the assembly flattens, smooths or cuts a profiled pattern on a workpiece. Or, because of the recent appearance of Spiral Cutterheads and Indexable Carbide Spiral Cutterheads, that old-style cutterhead is becoming dated. The cylindrical cutterhead was preceded by the "Square" Cutterhead; see the 2d image below.
One would think that, with its two cutting edges, the auger bit would have preceded the rotary cutterhead of the planer and jointer. Such is not true, though, as the rotary cutter head concept preceded the two-edged auger bit by a century. Samuel Bentham (dates), labeled by some the “father of the modern woodworking machine,” is credited with inventing the rotary cutterhead. Impact per Ettema also from Ettema, n. 20 Richards, Treatise, pp. 5-6. also Richards file.